Nike: A Story Through Its Products
, by Ben Mwangi, 18 min reading time
From the Cortez to the Air Max, and the timeless Air Force 1 to the revolutionary Flyknit, Nike’s history is written in the soles of its most iconic sneakers. This blog explores how Nike’s products have shaped not just sportswear, but global culture, one legendary release at a time. At Kicks, we bring this legacy closer to home. As the top sneaker store in Kenya and East Africa, we are proud to represent decades of innovation, style, and performance. Whether you’re a collector, a trendsetter, or just love a clean pair of kicks, Kicks is your trusted source.
The story of Nike emerges from an encounter that shaped the brand’s future. A meeting between two men, Phil Knight and Bill Bowerman, seemed destined to turn the former into an elite athlete, but in that failed attempt, they ended up creating the most influential sports brand.
Blue Ribbon Sports, the Predecessor of Nike
Bill Bowerman was a track and field coach at the University of Oregon, a place with a rich athletic tradition. Though he had played American football, his true impact came as a coach—first training Olympic athletes and later popularizing what was then called jogging. Bowerman didn’t just want to train elite competitors; he believed that sports should be accessible to everyone. After decades of coaching Olympians, he discovered that Arthur Lydiard, another athletics legend from New Zealand, was bringing sports to a new audience—people who had never exercised before. Bowerman was among the first to adopt Lydiard’s training methods and soon sought to introduce them in the United States. His book Jogging is considered the cornerstone of recreational running’s popularization. He established running groups for people of all ages and backgrounds, emphasizing the importance of movement over competition. Many of these groups were led by Bowerman’s own athletes.
Source: Substack
Bowerman was also an innovator, always seeking improvements. He developed his own sports drink, redesigned uniforms to reduce weight, and, most importantly, crafted running shoes for his athletes—often handmade in his workshop. Some of his ideas were brilliant, while others were spectacular failures, but his athletes were always his test subjects.
One of those athletes was Phil Knight, a decent runner without outstanding results. After earning a journalism degree, he pursued business studies at Stanford. One of his assignments required him to create a business plan, and he chose something familiar: athletic footwear.
Source: Nike
At the time, adidas shoes were the most popular among runners, but their high price due to import costs from Germany made them inaccessible to many athletes. Knight saw a pattern: German cameras had once been the best in the world, but Japanese cameras—less traditional but well-made and affordable—were taking over. The same was happening with watches, as Japanese brands overtook Swiss ones. Could the same be done with athletic shoes?
Blue Ribbon Sports: Beginnings in Importing
Knight, who was making a living as a part-time teacher, turned to his former coach, Bill Bowerman—the person he trusted most when it came to shoes. What started as a class project soon turned into a real business—or something close to it.
During a trip to Japan, Knight introduced himself to various manufacturers as a footwear importer, even though it was just an idea at that stage. He improvised a company name on the spot: Blue Ribbon Sports. The manufacturer that impressed him most was Onitsuka Tiger, marking the beginning of their relationship.
Knight and Bowerman sealed their agreement with a handshake, $1,000, and the name Blue Ribbon Sports. This moment remains immortalized in a small detail found in many Nike shoes today: the brand’s most durable material, used in high-wear areas, is named BRS1000, a nod to that foundational partnership, which was meant to be just as lasting.
Initially, Blue Ribbon Sports functioned purely as an importer, buying Onitsuka shoes in Japan and selling them in the U.S. Bowerman recommended them to his athletes, while Knight sold them directly out of his car trunk. However, Bowerman soon began suggesting improvements. The needs of American athletes were different from those of Japanese runners. Perhaps a shoe could be improved by adding one element or removing another.
Source: Nike
The jogging movement, which Bowerman had introduced from New Zealand, also brought new ideas. Unlike competitive athletes, who had been the primary users of running shoes, joggers required more cushioning. Bowerman, responding to his runners’ feedback, proposed adding a foam wedge to Onitsuka shoes, making them significantly more comfortable and turning them into a commercial success.
Gradually, Bowerman’s deep understanding of athletes’ needs led to design changes that proved to be not only effective but also commercially viable. Blue Ribbon Sports remained a small distributor in the Pacific Northwest, focused on runners, but its approach was far more creative than other Onitsuka importers.
By the early 1970s, Bowerman and Knight realized that what had started as a small venture had evolved into a full-fledged business. They were no longer just selling shoes—they were designing, marketing, and distributing them. The only missing piece was manufacturing their own products. Given their direct relationships with factories, it seemed like a natural step.
As Blue Ribbon Sports looked to expand, Onitsuka began to have concerns about Bowerman and Knight’s operations in other markets. This led to a not-so-amicable split, which ultimately ended in court.
From BRS to Nike
Blue Ribbon Sports wanted to produce its own model, but a running shoe would directly compete with Onitsuka—something strictly forbidden by their contract. Instead, Bill Bowerman turned back to his first love, American football, and designed a multifunctional boot that could also be used for soccer. This first boot was named THE NIKE, a name that came at the last moment.
When Knight and Bowerman decided to create their own brand, they had no clear idea for a name. Among Knight’s suggestions were Falcon and Dimension Six, but none felt quite right. The name Nike came from Jeff Johnson, the first employee ever hired by Blue Ribbon Sports. He had a dream in which the Greek goddess of victory, Nike, appeared to him—a perfect reference for a sports brand that aimed for excellence.
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They were also unsure about the logo. For their catalogs, BRS had hired a design student, Carolyn Davidson, and tasked her with creating an unusual blend of speed and support—two opposing concepts that were difficult to balance. They wanted the logo to serve a functional purpose on the shoe (similar to Adidas’ three stripes) while also conveying a sense of swiftness. Between both ideas, Davidson leaned toward speed. The name Swoosh came later, inspired by Swoosh Fiber, a material Bowerman had used in a previous shoe, the Onitsuka Marathon.
Nike was born in a very specific context—the track and field stadiums of the University of Oregon—but it soon expanded into other sports. In tennis, their first major move came in 1973 with Ilie Năstase, a Romanian player who had a brief stint with the brand but helped define the ideal Nike athlete: charismatic, rebellious, and successful. Nike already had such an athlete in its own ranks—Steve Prefontaine, a runner mentored by Bill Bowerman who held every U.S. record from 1,500 to 10,000 meters.
The rebellious image continued in tennis throughout the 1980s and 1990s with figures like John McEnroe and Andre Agassi.
Source: Nike
Nike’s first basketball shoes were the Blazer (named after the Portland team) and the Bruin (after UCLA’s team). They quickly sought to enter the professional basketball market, securing endorsements from stars like Spencer Haywood and George Gervin.
In running, their core sport, Nike made an impact with the Nike Cortez, which evolved from models co-developed with Onitsuka. They then introduced groundbreaking innovations inspired by everyday objects—like a waffle iron, which led to one of the most imitated outsoles in history. This design debuted on the first Moon Shoe and later appeared on the Waffle Racer, LDV, LD-1000 and other models.
Nike from 1977 to 1984: The Birth of Air
Between 1977 and 1984, Nike introduced a series of innovations that laid the foundation for becoming one of the most dominant brands in the athletic footwear industry. This period, marked by technological advancements and the solidification of Nike’s identity as a high-performance brand, saw the launch of revolutionary products—most notably, the first shoe with an Air unit and the Air Force 1, which would forever change basketball and street fashion.
By 1977, Nike was already establishing itself as a serious competitor in sports footwear, mainly in running. However, the true game-changer arrived with the development of the Air unit, an innovation created by aerospace engineer Frank Rudy. The idea emerged when Rudy, who worked in the aeronautics industry, began experimenting with air as a cushioning material. Initially, several brands rejected his proposal, but Nike—always open to innovation—recognized its potential. The concept was simple: air is lighter than foam and retains its shape for a longer period.
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The first shoe to feature an Air unit was the Nike Tailwind, released in 1978. This running model introduced a revolutionary cushioning system that provided greater comfort and protection, reducing impact on athletes’ legs during training. Despite an unusual debut at the Honolulu Marathon, the Tailwind was not only a success in terms of performance but also helped Nike stand out from its competitors by embracing a technology previously unseen in sports footwear.
The impact of the Nike Tailwind was immense. The Air technology symbolized Nike’s commitment to continuous innovation and its vision of pushing the limits of human performance. However, Air technology wasn’t just for running—it soon found its way into basketball. In 1982, Nike introduced the Nike Air Force 1, the first basketball shoe to incorporate an Air unit.
Source: Nike
The Air Force 1 was groundbreaking in many ways. Designed by Bruce Kilgore, it combined the advanced cushioning of the Air unit with a hiking boot-inspired structure. Since the Air unit required a thicker midsole, Kilgore designed the shoe with added stability in mind. Though originally intended as a basketball-exclusive sneaker, its popularity quickly spread beyond the court, becoming a staple of streetwear culture.
With its sturdy silhouette and distinctive rubber sole, the Air Force 1 became a hit both on and off the court. It was one of the first sneakers to break away from being seen as purely athletic gear, evolving into a cultural icon. Over the years, the Air Force 1 has remained relevant through countless collaborations and special editions, making a lasting impact in both sports and fashion.
Between 1977 and 1984, Nike cemented its status as an industry pioneer, driven by innovation and the goal of creating products that enhanced athletic performance. The integration of Air technology in models like the Nike Tailwind and Air Force 1 not only improved comfort and functionality but also positioned Nike as a leader in sports footwear technology—laying the groundwork for future innovations that would continue to shape the worlds of sports and fashion.
Nike in 1984: The Fall After “I Love L.A.”
In 1984, Nike found itself in a delicate position. Over the past decade, the company had grown exponentially, but that growth had led to a dilution of its brand image, expanding into territories beyond its origins. The Los Angeles ’84 Olympics and the grand “I Love L.A.” campaign represented a part of Nike, featuring John McEnroe, players from the Lakers, Dodgers, and Raiders (who did not compete in the Games), as well as Salazar, Mary Decker, and Carl Lewis. Nike had not reached a sponsorship agreement with the Olympic Committee, yet its impactful advertisements made everyone associate them with “the L.A. ’84 brand.”
Source: Lürzer
However, in traditional sales channels, Nike’s personality had faded, with licensing deals allowing the production of almost any product. Even in basketball, a sport they dominated, their rapid expansion led them to sign a large portion of NBA players, engaging in a sponsorship race that lacked strategic direction. For the first time in a decade, sales were slowing.
After Los Angeles ’84, Nike had to ask itself what the next step should be. The answer was right there in L.A., where a North Carolina player was on the verge of becoming a star.
Michael Jordan: The Nike Revolution
During the Los Angeles Games, Michael Jordan averaged 17 points per game—a solid figure—but what truly stood out was his playing style, which captivated everyone. While at North Carolina, Jordan typically wore Converse as part of the university’s uniform, though he preferred Adidas. In 1984, Adidas was in a complicated situation. Its founder, Adi Dassler, had passed away in 1978, and during the 1980s, his children were locked in a battle to regain distribution control in the United States.
For Jordan, Adidas was the first choice. Nike had to offer something different to secure his signature—and what they proposed was something never before seen in basketball.
Source: Nike
The story is closely tied to his agent, David Falk, who worked for ProServ, the largest sports representation agency at the time. The company’s founder, Donald Dell, was a former high-level tennis player who had represented the United States in the Davis Cup. Dell, also a lawyer, began helping some of his tennis peers—such as Stan Smith and Arthur Ashe—with their contracts in the 1960s. These early collaborations eventually grew into the largest representation agency, with 16 offices worldwide and clients across multiple sports. Due to its origins, ProServ always maintained a strong connection to tennis.
What Nike proposed to David Falk and Michael Jordan was similar to what ProServ had developed for some tennis players. It was not just about using a player’s name for a shoe—they wanted to create an entire product line. This concept had been seen before in tennis, where players could choose their attire and had more individual visibility during matches.
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Signature shoes—basketball sneakers named after players—were not a new idea. Bob Cousy, Walt Frazier, and Kareem Abdul-Jabbar all had their own models, but none of them had been built around a broader marketing vision. That was exactly what Nike offered Jordan. And he accepted.
The launch of the first Air Jordan and the marketing campaign surrounding it—including the NBA’s ban on red and black sneakers—triggered an unexpected shift at Nike. The idea of creating something entirely new became the foundation upon which Nike would build its legacy.
1985 to 1991: The Revolution
Fueled by Jordan's success, Nike implemented a similar approach in its subsequent designs. This was particularly evident with the Jordan line in 1987, when the company took a radical turn. Instead of releasing a shoe similar to the Jordan 1, they developed an entirely new and revolutionary model. Manufactured in Italy, featuring no visible logos, and significantly more expensive than its predecessor, the Air Jordan 2 set a precedent. Each new Jordan release would continue this cycle of reinvention.
Nike’s innovation extended beyond basketball. The company introduced a new category of footwear called the Trainer—a multifunctional model designed for athletes who engaged in multiple sports and didn’t want to switch shoes. In 1987, Nike launched the Trainer alongside the perfect athlete: Bo Jackson. Originally created for all-around athletes, the Trainer unexpectedly gained traction in tennis, becoming the go-to choice for elite players like John McEnroe, Andre Agassi, and Mats Wilander.
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From a technological standpoint, the late 1980s saw the rise of Air Max, an evolution of the Air concept developed in the late 1970s. The goal had always been to make the Air unit as large as possible, eliminating as much foam as possible. By 1987, the Air units had grown so much that the only way to expand further was to make them visible on the sides. Commercially, it was a risky move—after all, it openly displayed the cushioning system. Many at Nike questioned the approach, asking, “Would you use transparent tires?” However, the new midsoles had one major advantage: for the first time, Nike could showcase its technological innovation to everyone.
Source: Nike
Nike didn’t just create new products—it revolutionized the way they were marketed. The Revolution campaign introduced the “Air Pack” a collection featuring the Air Trainer, Air Safari, Air Max 1, and other models with visible Air units, such as the Air Revolution and Air Ace. The campaign featured a mix of anonymous athletes and stars like McEnroe and Jordan, all set to the song Revolution by The Beatles. The controversy over Nike’s use of a Beatles song only increased the campaign’s visibility.
In 1988, another Nike campaign introduced what would become the brand’s defining slogan: Just Do It. Originally created for a single season, the campaign featured ads starring a group of kids, an 80-year-old runner, and a dog keeping up with its owner—all concluding with a phrase that encouraged action: Just Do It.
Nike’s battle with Reebok to become the number one sports brand drove an ongoing pursuit of innovation. Some of the most notable results included the Court Challenge series for Andre Agassi, which experimented with color in tennis like never before; the launch of Nike ACG (All Conditions Gear) as an outdoor line; the evolution of the Air Max series (Air Max Light, Air Max 90); and the introduction of Huarache, a groundbreaking fit concept applied to running, tennis, training, soccer, and basketball models.
Nike’s International Expansion (1992–1999)
In 1991, the launch of the Nike Air 180 was more than just a technological innovation. For the first time, Nike coordinated all its teams for a global campaign release—an approach replicated a year later during the Barcelona ’92 Olympics Games. This marked the beginning of a new era in which Nike firmly established itself as the world’s number one sports brand.
Source: Nike
The U.S. basketball team, the ultimate example of sports globalization, featured six Nike-sponsored players, led by Michael Jordan, who was in the midst of his first three-peat.
The Air Max series continued its evolution, with models like the Air Max II (Air Max Light), Air Max III (Air Max 90), Air Max BW, Air Max ST, Air Max 93, Air Max 2, and Air Max Light 2—all designed by Tinker Hatfield and always maintaining a strong connection to sports. However, the Air Max 95, designed by Sergio Lozano, forever changed the cultural significance of the Air Max line, a legacy further cemented by the Air Max Plus (TN).
The 1996 Atlanta Olympics introduced a groundbreaking new technology: Air Zoom, which had debuted a year earlier. Models like the Air Zoom Spiridon, Air Zoom Flight, and Air Zoom Challenge showcased a new, more responsive, low-profile cushioning system. The campaign surrounding these releases stood in stark contrast to the friendly, welcoming image of the Olympic Games.
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2000–2006: Expansion into Culture
During the early 2000s, Nike extended its dominance beyond sports into the broader sportswear industry. This era began with two revolutionary designs: the Air Presto and Shox.
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It was also the time of the first Total 90 football boot, an eye-catching design that laid the foundation for the T90 II (2002) and T90 III (2004).
Two of Nike’s biggest innovations of the decade were related to technology and wearables: Nike+ (launched with Apple in 2006), a pioneering collaboration that revolutionized run-tracking, and the FuelBand+, a wristband designed to monitor daily activity.
But above all, Nike expanded into new cultural spaces. Nike SB, its skateboarding line, became a prime example of how the brand connected with culture, music, and art through limited-edition releases. The success of Nike SB played a crucial role in shaping what became known as sneaker culture.
Source: Nike
2006–Present
Mark Parker joined Nike in 1979, working on design teams for models like the Nike Internationalist alongside the legendary Tinker Hatfield. In 2006, he was appointed CEO and successfully implemented his vision of merging design, culture, and innovation. Nike introduced groundbreaking technologies such as Nike Flyknit, LunarFoam, and React, while collaborations with cultural icons like Travis Scott, Drake, and Kendrick Lamar, as well as fashion heavyweights like Virgil Abloh and Dior, pushed the brand into new creative territories.
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From a design perspective, Nike standardized its aesthetic through the Roshe Run while elevating performance with the Vaporfly 4%—a shoe designed for the Breaking2 project, an attempt to break the two-hour marathon barrier. The Vaporfly 4% and its successors (Vaporfly Next%, Alphafly, etc.) have since revolutionized running shoe design and redefined world records in major races.
With Mark Parker stepping down and John Donahoe taking over, Nike has shifted its focus toward direct-to-consumer sales and digital platforms. Elliot Hill, a longtime Nike executive, has taken the helm as the new CEO, promising to revitalize the brand by prioritizing product innovation and rebuilding key relationships with athletes.